.png)
Appliances that are not monitored or maintained properly often lead to costly fixes, time-consuming repairs, and massive headaches for property managers and owners alike.
While GE Appliances builds our products to survive some of the toughest conditions known to man (ever seen what a banana looks like after a Super-Duty Spin Cycle?), GE Appliances also recognizes that the nature of appliance management and fleet maintenance at scale can cause an unnecessary drain on the operations of any property management team.
Having listened to our most loyal customers and sought a fitting solution to their needs, GE Appliances created SmartHQ Management – A Proactive Maintenance tool that leverages internet of things technology (IoT) and artificial intelligence (AI) to zero in on one of the biggest pain-points in appliance ownership while offering proactive insights for more efficient operations.
As the name suggests, SmartHQ Management is a smart way of caring for your appliances by implementing a system-wide analysis of appliances across your property (or properties) and providing the end-user with informed steps to keep your property’s assets in good working order for the long haul.
A proactive maintenance approach to appliance management helps to ensure that there are no weak points in your appliance fleet; and helps to ensure that all of your products are running smoothly when you need them (and efficiently when you don’t)
Once you've contacted GE Appliances to connect your appliances property-wide, SmartHQ Management’s open-integration platform begins to collect usage data within your personalized dashboard. That data, collected from the sensors in the appliances across your fleet, is analyzed en masse by AI that analyzes patterns begin to predict service needs and potential breakdowns.
If your appliance hits a certain threshold to indicate a serious problem, your property maintenance team is alerted via email or through our SmartHQ Management app to implement a solution. This message explains the problem and includes articles and videos about how to solve it. If the problem is not user-solvable, you're provided with instructions on how to contact professionals through our SmartHQ Service upgrade.
We analyzed existing operational data collected through our SmartHQ Management app to provide the most common issues across our various product lines that are often resolved with proactive maintenance across your portfolio of appliances.
Align
To align the refrigerator doors you will need a Phillips head screwdriver and a seven-sixteenths or five-sixteenths wrench. Begin by opening both doors of the refrigerator. Identify the grill base at the bottom of the appliance. Some grills will be attached with screws. Others will not. Using the Philips head screwdriver, remove the screws on each end of the grill base. Pull the grill base out with your hands and set it aside. Later models do not require grill base removal. Next, close both doors and identify the door alignment. Locate the door alignment screw at the bottom of the fresh food door. Using the wrench, turn the screw from left to right to raise the refrigerator door and right to left to lower it. Once the doors are evenly aligned, reassemble the grill base.
Level
To level the refrigerator case or to fix a door that won't close by itself, you'll need a 3/8 socket wrench. Begin by opening the refrigerator doors. identified the case leveling screw. Identify the case leveling screw under the refrigerator and freezer door. Using the 3/8 socket wrench, turn the case leveling screw clockwise to raise the refrigerator and counterclockwise to lower it. The screw will not come out as you turn. It simply adjusts the height of the front wheels of the appliance.
If your refrigerator has recently been installed, please wait 24 hours for the unit to stabilize and begin ice production. Once ice production begins, it can take up to 48 hours to fill the ice bucket.
If more than 48 hours have passed and ice production has not begun, please check on the following items:
Try to dispense water. If water is not dispensed, please watch the Water Does Not Work video. If water is dispensed, open the freezer door and pull out the ice bucket. Some models may require you to remove the freezer top shelf before removing the bucket. Identify the ice maker in the top back of the freezer compartment.
Check that the ice maker switch is in the ON position. The green light should appear under the switch when the ice maker is on. Next, make sure that the ice maker connector is properly plugged in.
Finally, check that the ice maker paddle is free. This paddle regulates ice production by sensing the ice level. If the ice maker was turned off, not plugged in, or the paddle was not free to move, please adjust in wait 24 hours for the first batches of ice.
Turn the ice maker off, wait 15 seconds, then turn it back on.
Press the paddle 3 times - this will begin the diagnostic test.
For your safety, please do not touch the ice maker during this time. In 3 minutes, you should see the rake inside the ice maker turn 360 degrees. At the end of 3 minutes, the ice maker mold should fill with water. If during the diagnostic test the ice maker rake did not move or water did not fill the mold, please call for an icemaker replacement.
Begin by opening both doors of the refrigerator. Identify the grill base at the bottom of the appliance. Some grills will be attached with screws. Others will not. For screw models, using a Phillips head screwdriver remove the screws on each into the grill base. Pull the grill base out and set it aside. Locate the tubing and blue connector behind the grill. Ensure a firm connection by pushing the tube into the blue connector. This should stop the leak.
If leaking continues, shut off the water supply and remove the blue connector by depressing the white collar while pulling on the tube. Using a box cutter or pair of scissors, cut a straight half-inch piece off of the tube and reconnect ensuring that the tube is firmly pressed into place. Reattach the grill base and the water should no longer leak.
If the dispenser options are lighting up and your refrigerator has recently been installed, please check that the water tank and water lines have been purged.
To verify this, select the water option in the dispenser system. Make sure that the lock option for the dispenser is turned off. To deactivate the lock, press and hold this option until the light goes off. Then press the dispenser cradle. Keep the cradle pressed for two minutes to purge the air from the system.
If no water is dispensed after purging, check that the water filter is not clogged. To do this, remove the filter and replace it with the filter bypass plug.
If you do not have a bypass plug, you can order one. Dispense water in the door.
If water is dispensed, order a new filter.
If water is not dispensed, check that the water supply has been properly installed. Make sure that the water line is not kinked. Make sure that the water supply is turned on.
If an issue was found with the water supply, contact a licensed plumber for assistance.
If the dispenser options do not light up after selecting an option, cut the power on the unit for 30 seconds to reset the controls. Then re-power the unit.
If the lights do not turn on, check the unit's power connector. This is located low behind the grill base of some units and on top under the door hinge of others. To check the connector remove the grill base or the door hinge unplug and reconnect insuring that the black marks on both connectors are properly aligned. Connectors into the door hinge may vary slightly in appearance.
If the issue is not resolved, order a new dispenser board. This is very easy to replace and no tools are required. Make sure that the water lines are not exposed to freezing weather.
There is no need to shut off the water in your property before replacing the filter.
You'll know it's time to replace the filter when the indicator light on the dispenser turns red or if you notice a slower flow of water from the dispenser.
If your refrigerator does not have an indicator light, replace the filter about every 6 months. To locate the filter, look inside the refrigerator in the upper right corner. Since it is possible for a small amount of water to drip out when removing the old filter, you might want to place a small towel underneath. Remove the filter by turning it to the left until it releases, making sure you don't pull down on it.
To prepare the new filter, you need to fill it with tap water. This allows for better water flow when the filter is installed. Position the new filter into the filter holder with the arrow on the front of the filter facing out. Place the filter up inside the holder and gently push up as you turn the filter to the right. Turn the filter to the right until it stops, taking care not to over-tighten it.
Run roughly 1 1/2 gallons of water through the new filter to clear any air from the system. A little water may initially spurt from the dispenser. So be sure to use a large pitcher to collect the water. Also, it's normal to see a slight discoloration of your water during this step, but don't worry - the water will return to its normal color after being dispensed for a few minutes.
If your refrigerator has a reset water filter button, press and hold it for 3 seconds to reset it. Now you are ready to enjoy fresher, cleaner filtered water and ice from your GE appliances refrigerator.
Use a sturdy container to depress and hold the water dispenser bar for 5 seconds. Release the water dispenser bar and wait five seconds. Repeat this activity of alternating between depressing and releasing the water dispenser bar for five seconds until water begins to flow.
If you are looking for the model and serial tag of a Side-by-Side or Bottom-Freezer refrigerator, you will want to see the following:
Serial numbers and model numbers of refrigerators are listed on the serial tag. For refrigerators with the freezer on top, the serial tag is located on the inside of the refrigerator.While facing the refrigerator, the serial tag is located on the left wall near the top of the refrigerator compartment. The model number can be seen here and the serial number is here.
Please note that as air is cleared from the system, water may spurt from the water dispenser. Once the water begins to flow constantly, continue depressing and releasing the dispenser bar – five seconds on five seconds off – for an additional two minutes. This process will produce a large volume of water, likely more than a drinking glass can hold.
To avoid overflowing the container, you may empty it during any of the five-second off intervals.
Use additional containers or use a large enough container to hold the total volume. This completes the process of purging air from your water system and the waterline is ready for use.
If your refrigerator displays a "Leak Detected" message on the control panel, open the filter door and check for leaks on or around the filter. If there is no obvious leak, the filter may not be installed properly.
In a proper installation, the label on the filter marked "FRONT" should be facing out and visible, while the label marked "BACK" should face the filter housing. If you don't see the word FRONT facing out, remove the filter by gently pulling it until it releases, being careful not to twist it.
A small amount of water can drip out, so you may want to place a small towel underneath.
Position the filter with the word FRONT facing out and push the filter back into place, again being careful not to twist it. Once the filter is correctly installed, the leak alert message should no longer be visible on the screen.
There are a couple of things you should remember about refrigerator temperatures in the amount of storage or load within it. First, a refrigerator works better when it's at least one-third to one-half full. The presence of items helps maintain stable and constant temperatures and keeps your refrigerator from working too hard.
The second thing to remember is never to block air circulation. Cold air blows from the air tower in the freezer and around the freezer compartment. This air also helps to cool the refrigerator. When items are stacked too close to the air vents or when the freezer compartment is over-packed with items, the air circulation can become blocked. With this airflow obstructed, your refrigerator will not cool properly. You want to maintain 3/8" or so around the inside of the freezer compartment to produce proper airflow. This will aid in the refrigerator's cooling and operating properly.
With the path of cold airflow from the freezer into the fresh food compartment being directly underneath the rear portion at the temperature control, a cold spot is created and items placed within this precise location may freeze at times. If this happens, simply move the items to one side or the other and out from under the cold spot.
In regards to food storage or load, it is important to maintain proper clearance that allows the doors to fully shut and form a good gasket seal. This will help regulate set temperatures as well as prevent internal moisture issues.
Ensure that there are no food items protruding from the door shelf that will block the gasket from engaging in the case flange. It is equally important to ensure that there are no items placed in position so that they block the travel of the shelve fronts into the case during closure.
Gas and electric ovens will cycle on and off throughout the cycle to maintain the set temperature. When the oven temperature has dropped below the set temperature, the oven cycles on again to heat and will then cycle off again once it is higher than the set temperature. The goal is to maintain an average set temperature, but you will see a normal swing in temperatures throughout the cycle. This is typical of ovens and is factored into how recipes are created and used.
The amount the oven will cycle (either higher or lower than the set temperature) will vary, and each individual unit can be different. While we cannot provide exact temperature fluctuation ranges or variance, temperatures may vary from the set temperature by + 30 degrees to – 30 degrees. The temperature swing can also vary by how and where you are measuring the temperature in the oven, room temperature, door openings, etc.
To adjust the oven temperature from the app, follow the following steps:
The self-clean cycle is a time-saving convenience feature. The oven is cleaned by heat, at temperatures above normal cooking temperatures. During the cleaning cycle, the oven is heated to about 880 degrees Fahrenheit (471° C.). At this temperature, food soils inside the oven decompose, leaving behind a small amount of ash. The leftover ash is similar to cigarette ashes and wipes out easily with a wet cloth.
No commercial oven cleaner or oven liner of any kind should be used in or around any part of the self-clean oven. Do not use pieces of aluminum foil to catch spillovers.
The cycle takes from one and a half hours to five hours, depending upon the amount of soil. A slight odor may be detected the first few times the oven is cleaned. Depending on your oven model, the pans and racks may need to be removed. As a general rule, you may leave self-clean racks in your oven, but you must remove stainless steel racks.
Avoid the time required for conventional self-clean ovens. Steam Clean allows for quick cleaning of light food spills at temperatures lower than the standard self-clean feature. Simply pour 1 cup of water into the bottom of a cool oven. Close the door and select Steam Clean. The cycle lasts about 30 minutes and loosens and softens the grime in the oven. Once the cycle is complete, wipe out the moisture and food soils with a soft cloth. Because Steam Clean uses a lower temperature and does not involve chemicals, pans and racks can remain in the oven during cleaning.
In the event there is a difficult to remove the spill or the spill is baked on multiple times, a cleaner made for use in ovens may be used. Be sure to follow the instructions on the product label. GE Appliances recommends Bar Keepers Friend or a solution of vinegar and baking soda. Care should be taken to remove these cleaners prior to range use.
Before replacing the oven light bulb:
Removing the light bulb:
Oven Light Bulb replacement is not covered under warranty.
Cooking performance of surface units can be improved by doing the following:
Smooth glass cooktops will take slightly longer to boil than traditional coil (Calrod) burners.Refer to the Owner's Manual for additional information regarding the best type of cookware for your particular model and for more information on how to optimize the cooking performance of your range.
Removal Instructions:
Installation Instructions:
Removal Instructions:
Installation Instructions:
Removal Instructions:
Installation Instructions:
In rare cases, the soft close mechanism may become uncoupled from the drawer. To reset this mechanism, remove the drawer and slide the catch pin forward. Then, reinstall the drawer
Proper preheating ensures that the oven is hot enough to begin baking. Improper preheating (that is, cooking in the oven that has not come up to set temperature) can negatively affect cooking. Depending on the recipe recommendations, the temperature of your foods when they go into the oven may determine your final baking time and baking results; if you put your food, such as biscuits or bread, in during Pre-heat, they may over brown on top or burn.
The more items to be heated in the oven during preheating (this includes multiple racks, baking stones, etc.) will affect the length of your pre-heat time. Always begin baking after the pre-heat signal. The signal will be a beep, indicator light, or chime. This lets you know your oven is at your needed baking temperature. For best results, turn the oven On before you begin your prep work
It is important to install your appliance properly. Listed below are some installation and leveling tips for a range:
Burner caps and grates should be cleaned regularly. This will help make it easier to maintain the caps and grates.
Grates and caps should be washed in hot soapy water, rinsed in clean water, and dried before you put them back on the cooktop. Your grates and caps can be cleaned in the dishwasher as long as they are enamel coated on the bottom. If they have rubber feet (bumpers), remove them before putting them in the dishwasher. Please review the use & care manual for instructions regarding cleaning instructions for your specific model.
To remove burnt-on grease, and restore the beautiful brass look, soak the cap in a solution of 1 cup water and 1 tbsp white vinegar for up to 18 hours or 1 cup water and 1/3 cup white vinegar for up to 1 hour. Wipe with a soft cloth. Do not clean with a metallic brush, as this can damage the brass.
For burned-on soil, you can try one of the following:
Grates that don't have rubber feet (bumpers) can usually be cleaned in a self-cleaning oven. See your Owner's Manual for specific cleaning instructions for your model. If self-cleaning instructions are not mentioned in the Owner's Manual, the grates should not be cleaned in a self-cleaning oven.
The CeramaBryte® Gas Grate Kit (WX10X10021) can also be used to clean baked on deposits and to revitalize gas grates and burner caps. To use the kit, first put on rubber gloves and safety glasses. Then, follow the instructions on the package. The steps are also listed below:
To minimize the possibility of electric shock, unplug this appliance from the power supply before attempting any maintenance or cleaning.
To clean the burner heads:
For heavy cleaning:
Do not use ammonia to clean the burner heads, as it will cause discoloration.
If the burners on your gas range or cooktop are clicking, please check the following:
Most ignition-related issues are because the burner head gets clogged after cleaning or after spillovers. If the cooktop or burners were recently cleaned, there could be moisture in the burner head ignition port (hole) and flame ports. The burner will continuously click and will not ignite until the ports are clear and the burner dries out.
Before cleaning, disconnect power to the range or cooktop. After cleaning the burner heads and caps, shake out excess water and let them dry out thoroughly by air drying or by setting them in a warm oven for 30 minutes. Once dry, replace the burner heads and caps to their correct position, plug in the unit, and try lighting the burners again. It can take up to 10 or 12 clicks to ignite a burner.
All of our gas cooking appliances come ready to be connected to natural gas and also come with an LP conversion kit to connect to LP (Liquid Propane).
We recommend keeping the natural gas orifices when you convert the appliance to LP, in case the range needs to be converted back to Natural Gas. There is usually not a natural gas conversion kit, so converting it back to natural gas often involves buying the parts that the orifices attach.
Proactive maintenance on your GE Appliances dishwasher unit will require that you locate and identify both the serial number and model number for your appliance.
Serial numbers and model numbers of dishwashers are listed on the serial tag. To locate the model or serial number for your dishwasher, you will need to first access the dishwasher rating label on your GE appliances.
To find the dishwasher rating label, first open the dishwasher door. The rating label is located just on the inside of the dishwasher, on the left hand side. This label contains the model number and the serial number.
GE uses two different types of detergent cups. One design turns to open and close while the other design flips open and closed. If you are having issues with your detergent cup opening, this video will outline some helpful hints for troubleshooting. GE also has a bulk detergent dispenser called smart dispense, which is featured in a video entitled, "Smart Dispense Usage".
If dirty or smelly water enters the dishwasher between cycles or water pumps out of the dishwasher during the wash cycle, the cause could be because there is neither an air gap nor a high drain loop installed.
GE dishwashers require either an air gap or a high drain loop to prevent these issues from occurring. Look to see if an air gap is installed and if the dishwasher is properly connected to it. If there is no air gap installed check to see if there is a high drain loop in the drain hose of the dishwasher.
A high drain loop is formed by the drain hose being fastened to the underside of the countertop. This performs the same task as an air gap but is much easier and less costly to install.
If there is no air gap installed, find the drain hose that connects the dishwasher and the household plumbing. Look to see if it is fastened to the underside of the countertop at any point along its path.
If it is, measure the height at the highest point. It should reach at least 32 inches above the floor of the room. If there is neither an air gap nor a high drain loop present, one or the other will need to be installed. If a high drain loop is desired, check to make sure the underside of the counter is at least 32 inches above the floor. If not, a high drain loop will not be acceptable and an air gap will need to be installed.
For this task, GE recommends the service of a professional plumber.
To install a high drain loop, use a bracket large enough to fit around the drain hose, which is available at any local hardware store.
Place the drain hose in the bracket. Screw the bracket to the underside of the counter. Be careful not to puncture or damage the drain hose. For marble, granite, or other hard surface countertops, the hose should be fastened on the side of the inside of the cabinet 32 inches above the floor level.
If the dishwasher is failing to fill with water it could be because the flood float is stuck.
The flood float is a device that prevents the water valve in the dishwasher from turning on if the water level in the dishwasher becomes too high. This could happen, for instance, if the dishwasher was run with a clogged disposer. Water from the dishwasher would not pump out because of the clogged disposer. The flood float would prevent more water from coming into the dishwasher.
The flood float may get stuck in the up position, preventing water from entering even though there's no water in it.
To fix this problem:
If the dishwasher is failing to fill with water it could be because the flood float is stuck.
The flood float is a device that prevents the water valve in the dishwasher from turning on if the water level in the dishwasher becomes too high. This could happen, for instance, if the dishwasher was run with a clogged disposer. Water from the dishwasher would not pump out because of the clogged disposer. The flood float would prevent more water from coming into the dishwasher.
The flood float may get stuck in the up position, preventing water from entering even though there's no water in it.
To fix this problem:
If the dishwasher is failing to be filled with water, it could be because its water supply is turned off.
Under the sink, some water connections include a water valve - which can be turned on or off. Turn this knob or handle counterclockwise to ensure it is on, allowing water to flow to the dishwasher. This only applies to units with this type of connection.
If a dishwasher is not being filled with water upon starting, it could also be because the knob is being turned too far causing the unit to bypass the first fill cycle. When setting a unit, turn the knob to the desired setting – just until it starts or changes the cycle.
If the timer is set properly, water should start to come into the dishwasher within a minute or two. If the timer was turned to start and water does not enter within that time frame, but does so in about five minutes longer the first fill was bypassed.
If the dishwasher is not running it may be because the plug has become loose. Not all dishwasher models have wall plugs. If your dishwasher has one, the plug will be located in one of the cabinets adjacent to the dishwasher. Check the plug and make sure the plug is securely placed in the socket.
If your dishes have completed the wash cycle and are not clean, the pump inlet may be clogged. A clogged inlet may prevent dirty water from pumping out of the dishwasher. This will result in poor wash performance. Examine the pump inlet for material that may be blocking it. Items such as plastic food wrap, lettuce, and similar materials are typically the cause of the blockage.
If debris is found in the pump inlet area, remove it. Glass fragments from broken glassware could also be blocking the inlet. Use protective gloves to prevent cuts to your hands in the event broken glass or other sharp objects are present.
If water is leaking out from under the cabinet, it may be because a hose is not clamped tightly. You will need a flathead screwdriver for this process. Check all of the hoses under the cabinet and tighten the clamps. Run the dishwasher and check for leaks.
If leaks persist call for service: 1-800-GE-CARES (1-800-432-2737)
If your dishwasher is leaking near either corner of the door, the corner baffles could be the cause of the leak. Some models do not have corner baffles, but if the gasket of your dishwasher is mounted to the door then your unit has corner baffles.
If the dishwasher has a door panel and an access panel, it has corner baffles. For those dishwashers without baffles, the gasket performs the same task. If the dishwasher only has one long panel or if the tub is made of stainless steel, it does not have corner baffles. The corner baffles can become distorted, causing water to leak out of the dishwasher. They are very easy to replace and no tools are required. Simply lift out the old baffles and replace them with the new set. The left and right baffles are not interchangeable. The left baffle will only fit the left side and the right baffle will only fit the right side.